Interview with An and Filip Arickx
A passionate aesthetic universe of art and cultural paradigms
An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx founders of the cult brand A.F. Vandevorst tell their story
If the fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp has become one of the most famous in the world, surely it is also due to a couple of designers who, in 20 years, helped to create their own tried and true style, identified as “Antwerp style” or the Belgian school. Throughout two decades, with an expressive force, mixing poetry with prose, and with an imposing and spectacular style, but one that is never daring nor paradoxical, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx, founders of the A.F. Vandevorst brand, have always known how to tell the story of an aesthetic universe outside of the usual box. They’ve excited, astounded, and reflected on what tradition is and how it can be valued, and not by compromising what is defined as an “identity”. We met with them in Paris during the presentation of their book, which celebrates 20 years of the brand, through images and stories of famous figures on the fashion scene. An and Filip told us about their inspiration, how their strength has always found its lifeblood in a unique and exclusive balance between realism and creativity.
In 20 years, you have always had a personal way of interpreting fashion, reinterpreting reality. Where did it all start? What gave you the idea to start?
“After graduating at the Antwerp Fashion Academy, we both first started to work for other brands. An worked at Dries Van Noten for 6.5 years and Filip consulted for Dirk Bikkembergs, some Belgian commercial brands, and did stylings for Belgian TV programs and magazines. After a while we felt the urge to tell our own story. It was time to express ourselves in our own way and, in 1997, we started to make plans for our own collection, which we launched in March 1998. Our personal life is and always has been a big influence on our work. Every season, our personal experiences get translated into the wardrobe we create for the women we like to dress. We love the mix of daily life with the beauty of dressing up.”
Your fashion can be defined fashion with a “strong personality”. Tell us how some of your iconic pieces were born.
“Almost each of the iconic pieces were realized differently. One is the result of an instant idea or an object or experience in our life, while another is a research of several days/weeks. One can also start with a drawing, while another one starts with a draping on a mannequin. But all of them are related to our story, and that’s maybe why they are perceived as strong and personal.”
Your’s is a sort of “obsession with hospital design”. From where does this stem, and how does your aesthetic research influence it?
” Filip: Since I was 12 I have been collecting hospital furniture. It’s a specific design which has attracted me ever since. I love the atmosphere of old hospitals and everything that goes with it, architecture, furniture, uniforms etc… An: I was raised by my mom who was an art teacher and taught me all about art and the art of creating. One artist instantly made my heartbeat go faster: Joseph Beuys. His work is created around his mythic story that he crashed with his small plane in the Crim mountains and was found almost frozen to death by the locals. They rubbed him with fat, wrapped him in felt, and rescued him. Later, he woke up in a German field hospital. All these elements he used in his work. In “I like America and America likes me”, he was taken from J.F.K. airport by an ambulance and brought to his gallery were he put on a performance with a coyote. Since then, and before knowing Filip, I collected hospital furniture and red cross objects. We don’t think this obsession influences any of our designs or collections in particular, but it was crucial in the birth of our DNA, and it still determines our identity and branding.”
For some years, now, fashion has been returning to the 80s and 90s. You who have been the creators of that “Antwerp school” style, what has been added or what was subtracted over these 20 years, also as compared to the beginning?
“We were never really inspired by decennia or history. The 80s and the 90s never influenced us, really. Although this period was a part of our lives, so it certainly must have left its traces in our minds. We think that, more in general, social media, politics, and environment are bigger influencers, which leave their mark on today’s Fashion.As the pace is faster, our access to the world is larger and more open. Fashion becomes less conceptual and more applied to an active daily life. We also see a tremendous influence of street and sport in fashion, which is great, since we all are very active.Also, in the beginning, we designed with a more local eye. Now we do with a more global vision.”
You exalt female determination and the female body through the great expressive force of your clothes. In your opinion, how are beauty and femininity interpreted, today?
“Beauty is a necessity in life and our self-esteem. Without any form of beauty, life is hardly bearable. Even the poorest tribes adorn themselves or their surrounding elements.Today, more and more women dare to speak for themselves. This will have, without any doubt, an enormous influence on fashion: a clever combination between beauty, body consciousness, and comfort. As long as we don’t forget about beauty!
Dina De Fina