NEW BLOOD: Alberto Caselli in conversation with Eduarda Abbondanza
Who best but Eduarda Abbondanza, the president of ModaLisboa, could help us understand more about one of the most remarkable initiatives of the Portuguese fashion industry?
How would you describe Sangue Novo?
A quest for new generations for the Portuguese and international fashion systems. Sangue Novo has existed for many years: I started at first because no one was working with young people, at the time there were no competitions and platforms of this type in Portugal. We started with no budget but with a lot of passion and after six editions there were 15 new similar initiatives in our country. We stopped Sangue Novo and kicked off with LAB, a sort of talent incubator and accelerator. Because after a few years all the other competitions were gone, I started again with Sangue Novo.
Sangue Novo has many different roles. What’s the most important one?
To find the true thoroughbreds. They do not have to necessarily create their own brand or label but they must enter in all various aspects of fashion with different functions and tasks.
What are the selection criteria for the finalists? Does the selection only take place in Portugal?
We want to find the best candidates who are selected by different juries made up of representatives of the Portuguese fashion industry. Fashion is a discipline that requires constant exercise, the only way to grow and evolve. To grow and to experiment, at school but also after. Ours is not an international competition, therefore we mainly work with 13 Portuguese universities and colleges, but international schools are more than welcome if they follow all the rules of the program, as in the recent case of college in Poland and one in Spain.
Tell us about some of Sangue Novo success stories.
Priscilla Alexandre, who began working for Opening Ceremony and then went to Hermès. Cristina Pedro, first at Balenciaga, then at Lacoste. Susanna Cabrito, who started at Chanel and Givenchy and now is at Chloé. Miguel Flor who is working on his project called Bloom. Osvaldo Martins that in addition to his brand now runs an interior design company. Maria Gambina who works for a large Portuguese licensee. And then Patrick de Padua, if only because he won the latest edition of the competition.
In your opinion, which are the characteristics of Portuguese fashion?
ModaLisboa is a very eclectic platform that perfectly represents the historical moment, social, cultural development of Portuguese society of today, as is evident, for example, by the fashion shows by brands from Angola and other African countries. A very important feature is our desire to experiment and to grow. As well as, indeed, a very good relationship, which is evident during ModaLisboa, with the city in all its creative aspects and that makes us different from other fashion weeks. New experiments, always. For example, at the moment with patterns and prints, because it reflects the needs of the industry, whereas before we used to work a lot with solid colours and colour blocking. Fashion designers like Nuno Gama and Alexandra Moira are re-evaluating the traditional know of Portugal and rediscovering fabrics, materials, the sartorial and handcraft approach, the ancient manufacturing techniques for cotton and wool. Incidentally, 14 of our designers are collaborating with footwear companies.
Any new developments for the future?
Lots, despite the delays caused by the current political situation. As usual, every six months we completely change the exhibition space. We intend to grow Wonder Room very quickly and we need different sized catwalk venues. We are also planning an initiative linked to tourism and retailers in Lisbon. The e-commerce platform is ready, but we are waiting to develop marketing and investment. I’m being asked very often to do a book on ModaLisboa: I have to find or invent the right format, whether a book or a series of books. I am negotiating with official European Community agencies to further develop ModaLisboa. In conclusion, more work more and on a more international level.
