Soie Dior

Exclusive Haute Couture spirit for the High Jewellery Collection by Dior.

Ribbons, grosgrain, pleats and ruffles, always irreplaceable allies for defining the most sophisticated details of Haute Couture creations, are reinterpreted in a refined and precious way in the new ‘Soie Dior’ collection conceived by Victoire de Castellane for the historic Parisian Maison.

Putting aside, at least for a moment, the silks, the pongés, the gazars and the satins she likes to play with, Victoire now engages with white and pink gold combined with an incredible palette of gems, undisputed protagonists of this renewed collection where colour triumphs. The drapes she has designed for rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces in search of their most eclectic versatility, are covered with white and vivid yellow diamonds, precious sapphires in royal blue or vibrant tones of magenta, emeralds, tourmalines or tsavorites that dazzle with their almost highlighter effects. The cocktail rings are huge and highly decorated in the most sinuous and domineering colourful shapes. The claws-set gems reject traditional colour schemes in favour of strong contrasts, both  in oval and cushion-cuts, sometimes in squares or radiants. The mandarin garnets are matched to sunny yellow diamonds, the shocking-pink sapphires with neon-green tsavorites. The sparkle of diamonds elegantly illuminates and softens the kaleidoscope effects of the most vivid gemstones. Thanks to the genius of the best craftsmen and  setters, very complicated jewels in terms of construction are actually very tactile and sensuous: it is a pleasure to caress them and feel the mimed rustling of silk on the skin. A great set featuring  a necklace and a bracelet is a sort of sinuous ribbon  entirely paved with round and baguette-cut white diamonds: the central curves reveal a back side of fancy yellow diamonds that holds an exceptional ultra-white teardrop diamond of 7.09 carats. Once again, Haute Couture and Haute Joaillerie prove inseparable and indispensable allies thanks to the savoir-faire, the flair and the best Parisian creativity at its highest level. From fabric to jewel, the magical Midas’ touch did the rest.

Adriano L. Davoli

Fashionable Jewels Rubans Précieux

HauteCoutureCollezioni n.163, SS16