Woolrich: roots in the future
A voyage into the Woolrich archives: between continuity and rebirth, the check pattern is the star
A desire for authenticity, a return to the origins, respect for tradition and its values are the driving force guiding a search and recovery activity of the past that continues to fascinate and get the attention of the contemporary consumer.
Far from being a simple delve into nostalgia, this stylistic repechage proposes the bringing back into the limelight memories of a bygone style that have had a profound impact on a particular historic or cultural moment. In an ongoing interaction between past and future, Woolrich opens the company archives for us, allowing us to analyse the elements of continuity and breakdown between the heritage garments that have marked the creative path of the brand, and their modern interpretation.
We find the indestructible check pattern as a common denominator of this style evolution that winds between assonances and contrasts. Once used in workwear and leisure, the famous checked motif is now reliving a “golden age”, winning a leading role both on the catwalks and as a decalogue of style for the hipster generation. We find it like this in the following pages in an all over version, re-proposed in the different backgrounds of the checked motif. In a mash-up of lines and shapes in which colour has the last word.
Among the iconic garments making up the Woolrich heritage, we find the three-piece wool tuxedo in a “hunting check” version, so widespread in the 1960s to be known as the “Pennsylvania Tuxedo”. A perfect meeting of functionality and versatility, the historical flannel overshirt keeps the famous statement red and black “Buffalo Check” pattern re-proposed and updated in a reversible version for Fall/Winter 2019.
But it is in the outerwear sector especially that authenticity and technology have the longest association: 1979 in fact marked the first collaboration between Woolrich and Gore-Tex to develop a mountain parka that was both waterproof and breathable at the same time, and destined to become the signature garment of the brand. Today that parka is an even more technological and performance garment, with a two-faced soul to adapt itself to climatic challenges and boasting an innovative feather-light filling, yet knowing how to tell us a story that speaks of truth and tradition, because only knowing where you come from is it possible to know where you are going.
By Lidia Casari, ph. Michele De Andreis, art direction and styling Alberto Caselli Manzini, model Will Odiete, styling assistant Giovanni de Pol
